March 6, 2007

The Jars of Phonsavanh...

We arrived yesterday in Phonsavanh after a 6 hour bus trip from Vang Vieng. Today we went out to see the Plain of Jars sites that are scattered around the area. They are large carved stone funerary urns , 2-3000 years old. We also stopped in a village that has used some of the bomb casings kindly deposited by the Americans in their fences and building, quite a unique sight.
Laos is the most bombed country on Earth, between 1960 and 1970 some 2 million tonnes of bombs were dropped, something equivalent to a plane load of bombs, every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day for 9 years. Amazing.
There are many, many unexploded bombs in the countryside, keeping what would have been tourist sites off limits until they are cleared.
Also new to us was the armed presence along the road and even on the bus. Apparently there have been some skirmishes recently between the army and some local bandits, so every 5-10 kms on the main road there are a few guys having a snooze with an AK47 by their side. Ready for ...well I'm not sure. The 'Bus Marshall" was a chap with a short stock AK under his jacket, who also did alot of sleeping...so, as long as this was a trait also enjoyed by the baddies, order would be seemingly maintained.
Vang Vieng was a nice relaxing stop for us, we tubed down the river a couple of times. It was great to gently float down in the sunshine, although it is a weird sight to see a couple of hundred other tubers doing the same thing (well you don't actually see that many - that's how many start...most never make it down, choosing to stop at the bars and swing off the rope lines all day before getting a tuk tuk back to town before sunset).
Vang Vieng also had its share of something we have seen at every stop in Laos. Local Parties. At first we thought we were lucky for spotting one in Luang Namtha, but now we realise it goes on every day, everywhere. Marquees are erected, tables and chairs laid out and music is blared. Everyone dances in a circle around the dance area....maypole-esque, while twirling their hands to the music that is a cross between bad karaoke and a ring tone.
Next stop for us is jumping across the border to Vietnam where we have some time before our folks pop over to travel with us for a few weeks which we are looking forward to.

2 comments:

Unknown 1:41 PM  

What an incredible idea ...funeral jars . How do you ' steer ' when tubing ? We are looking forward to seeing you too !

Anonymous,  11:17 AM  

You go where the current takes you ... if you feel the need for a Beer Lao from one of the riverside bamboo bars then you steer in using your flip-flops/thongs. Nothing happens too fast in Laos!

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